I have had a close look at an original 1812 dress, which is lovely in cream fabric. It has a fabulous sleeve which we wanted to duplicate. Lucky me, I found a picture of something similar in Jean Hunnisett's book.
Pretty close! It even came with a pattern1 So I drew it out and made a mock up in cotton and taffeta. It turned out much too full in the underarm area. Not a spot I personally want a pile of fabric. So, I had to modify it. Trial #2 proved there was not enough height in the sleeve.
It actually took 3 versions to get something that worked and gave the look. I have now sewn the sleeve in the mauve silk taffeta with vintage lace for the cuff. This meant modifying the cuff more, to fit the width of the lace. It had to be constructed entirely by hand, just the way the original was done. After all, there were no sewing machines in 1812!
If you've ever made this sleeve, please let me know!