Friday, July 29, 2011

1812 short gowns

 More 1812 short gowns for Fort George.

 Last summer we made some short gowns to field test. Some results came back, in need of repairs. So, I have made two more, with some changes, to overcome the problems the repairs revealed. This first gown was unlined. I used twill tape to create the casing at the neckline and waist.

One of the issues was the neckline tearing. I determined that this was because the neckline had been clipped in order to turn it more easily. Using the tape and a narrow seam with no clipping, should be stronger. Being unlined made the back pleats thinner and therefore, less fabric under the casing, which also tore in the field test.

This was a really nice print.

Number two was lined with a nice print, bought on sale as it has faded. That made it an easy choice as a lining.  In 2010, I developed new patterns for the short gowns in small, medium and large.

Twill tape was again used at the neck and waist casings. I also trimmed away the lining at the pleats, to reduce bulk. Let's hope it lasts well! These are now off to be worn the rest of the summer.

Part of the problem, I surmised, was that short gowns are meant to gather in at the drawstrings. That means they are a loose garment, usually worn over stays. I have a feeling it was worn too tight, which caused wear and tear. Literally! 

That's the challenge with dressing folks long distance, when the training doesn't sink in, as to how to wear the clothing of another era. Modern folks are too used to Lycra!! Their expectations of fit are strange. I'm still bemused how anyone can possibly be a size zero!! It simply does not compute!!

A beautiful 19120's style wedding dress left the studio this week. Of course, I cannot reveal it until after the wedding!

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