Edwina Richards Studio

Last post

2011-11-30T12:24:00.001-05:00

I have been writing two blogs for some years now. I am finding it too much. Both my costume work and my creative art work are part of my life and what goes on at my studio. So, after much thought, I am going to discontinue this blog and keep writing on my other blog "Not Carved In Stone." It will include posts about my costume work, which I hope will be of interest to all my readers.

So, friends, I hope you will follow me there.

Thanks for you attention and comments.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-11-23T08:35:00.001-05:00

Window on the world

A Miwinters Dream Tale

2011-11-18T12:26:00.001-05:00

Titania's crown

I am currently working with The Company of Fools, creating some costumes for their show "Midwinter Dream tale." Here is Titania's crown, ready for the next fitting.

It's realy put me in the Christmas mood, as folks come to visit my Christmas sale at the studio. The crown uses icicles wired to a frame, then wired again in an artistic way, to hold the icicles upright. then i wove strips of her dress fabric around the icicles, to give a band to the crown. It needs to be lgiht, as this is a very physical comedy!

I have created Titania's costume and sorted out the chorus. I don't wnat to spoil it with too many details!

The show opens at the Great Canadian Theatre Company November 29th, 2012.

Christmas sale at the studio

2011-11-15T08:51:00.001-05:00

I'm getting ready for my sale this weekend at my studio. I took these Christmas dragons to doll club on Sunday. They are kinda goofy and people liked them. The beards are removable!!

I have all sorts of gift items I have created and there are some angels in the works too!

If you are in Ottawa this weekend, please look me up! I'll be in the studio Thursday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 pm. 1276 Wellington Street.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-11-09T15:17:00.002-05:00

Williamsburg

Getting Dressed

2011-10-31T08:12:00.000-04:00

A really interesting over view of getting dressed.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-10-26T10:28:00.003-04:00

La Belle Assemble

Costume video

2011-10-24T09:07:00.000-04:00

Take a look at these fabulous examples of 1860-70's Dolmans.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-10-19T08:22:00.000-04:00

Arc des Amis

Sneak peek at the new Snow White movie

2011-10-15T10:00:00.000-04:00

I want you all to follow this link to see the costumes for the new Snow White movie starring Julia Roberts. There is some serious fun happening here!
Let me know your thoughts once you've taken a gander!

http://www.ew.com/ew/gallery/0,,20483133_20534556,00.html?stitched

Wordless Wednesday

2011-10-12T09:48:00.002-04:00

Pelisse ready to go!

2011-10-07T10:02:00.000-04:00

Here we have a Pelisse, which is what this style of coat was called in 1812. Just like jumpsuits are now "onesies" fashions constantly reinvent themselves.

The coat is made with silk taffeta, which was dreadful to hand sew! My poor sore fingers! The lining is fine silk charmeuse.

The braid was used double width and joined using invisible rayon thread, then applied to the coat. The military look was very popular. remember, there was a war going on!

You may recall the blue silk ball gown. Well, this coat goes with it. I took the pattern from an original garment, in combination with a Spencer pattern developed some time ago. The original pelisse was very fine wool sateen, with a quilted padded lining in the bodice.

The coat took 4 times longer to make than I anticipated. Argh!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-10-05T10:01:00.004-04:00

1776 debate: Freedom for slaves

2011-09-30T12:51:00.001-04:00

The 1812 pelisse is almost done. I ran out of braid to finish the cuffs. As always happens, I only needed 3 inches, so naturally, had to order another meter. It got thrown out accidentally at the fabric store, so the second lot should be in today. Hopefully. Still awaiting the phone call.

Hand sewing the silk taffeta was a bitch, to be honest. The silk was so hard to drag the needle out of. My fingers were quite sore by the time the lining was in. I had to use pliers when sewing on the buttons.

That's my gripe. I am very pleased with it, I must say. Fall is here, so Leslie will be needing it.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-09-21T08:56:00.002-04:00

Lafayette

West End Studio Tour

2011-09-15T09:38:00.001-04:00

This piece is called Far Away. It's created using fabric and Paverpol and is mounted on a tiny shelf. It's ready for the West End Studio Tour. the Vernissage is tonight at Wall Space Gallery on Wellington Street, Ottawa.

Very exciting, very busy time. I'm trying ot add images to my business cards, but my printer has light stirpes and I'm out of blank cards. off to staples I go!!

Wish me luck. I have 17 new pieces this year, a record for me!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-09-14T10:03:00.001-04:00

1812 Debut

2011-09-12T07:45:00.000-04:00

Leslie had her debut in her 1812 gown recemtly at Willimastown. She looks lovely. The wonderful thing about getting photos like this, is seeing the client with their hair done, the accessories and in a lovely setting. Love the parasol!

Sorry, I didn't note the name of the handsome soldier who accompanied her.

Leslie gave a short talk on the War of 1812 in this gown. It was the first of many Parks Canada events for this star of history!

1776 gowns

2011-09-09T07:38:00.001-04:00

As you may recall, I went to Colonial Williamsburg this August. I'm still sifting through my images. Here are two, of a lovely silk gown. The top one shows the front, with the petticoat. The ruffled trim is hand-cut organza. The edges have been pinked. The entire dress is hand sewn. A petticoat would support the skirt, plus pannier hoops at the hips. I can only say - Gorgeous!

These pictures don't do the dress justice. The floral motifs are hand embroidered. Again, construction is entirely hand sewn. The style is a saque-back gown, meaning pleats fall gracefully from the shoulder, fitted over the back to the waist. The ladies I saw wearing these gowns looked lovely. Back then. the fitting was generally made while being worn. No paper patterns ion 1776!

I'll find one of Martha Washington to share with you soon.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-09-07T19:44:00.003-04:00

Barricade

Silk gown for sale

2011-09-04T09:01:00.003-04:00

I have listed the 1885 wedding gown I've created on my Etsy store, which sells my art works. Please check it out. If you know any brides looking for a unique vintage style gown, please point them this way!

Can you see yourself in this dream of a gown? It steps right out of the pages of history. It is a reproduction of an 1885 wedding gown, worn by Alice Abbot, daughter of John Abbott, Canada's first Canadian-born Prime Minister.

This gown is 100% silk brocade. I used antique (c.1885) linen lace on the front and sleeves, hand made braided flowers on the back waist. There are small pendants on the back, with pearls strung between the flower motifs. Each motif took hours to make by hand. The pendants are hand made with polymer clay.

The train is detachable, revealing an A-line skirt with a small train. The train is about 3' long. The train is lined in satin, with an organza and lace dust ruffle.

The outfit is made with authentic details, including an underskirt and cage bustle. There are bones in the bodice, which shapes the figure beautifully. I can send more pictures, if you want to see the bustle or dust ruffle.

Fits bust size 36" and waist size 25-27".

This gown was created in my haute couture workshop, which is smoke -free. It truly is one-of-a-kind.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-08-31T08:53:00.000-04:00

Wig maker

photo by Rick Sutherland

Wedding Bells

2011-08-28T08:54:00.000-04:00

The new magazine came out last month and my rep come by with my copy. The new ads look great. If you get a copy, please send me some feedback. It's hard to know if the ads work, otherwise!! They have an online directory too, organised locally.

I've decided to cut back on Yellow Pages ads. I don't think people are using the books as much as the internet these days.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-08-24T08:45:00.000-04:00

A wedding in France

2011-08-22T10:01:00.000-04:00

Time to post some pictures! The thing with the weddings I create gowns for, is that I can't post pictures till after the wedding!! It's such a joy to find lovely images like these in my inbox!

Melanie was married in France this June. The gown was one she had made in the Far East when she was there, but she wasn't entirely happy with it. So, I added an inner bodice for support and removed all the silk roses it was festooned with. The skirt was re-draped and new roses added. The pictures don't show the details, but the impression is wonderful. Isn't she lovely?

I love the last picture of the happy couple.

Williamsburg, VA

2011-08-18T16:26:00.002-04:00

Our trip to Virgina was a costume lover's delight! here's a few pictures to inspire you. I have many more to share!!

Mark Hutter giving his introduction to the milliners shop. Mark really knows his stuff. he gave Rick and I a tour behind the scenes, where they create 18th century clothing using 18th century methods. Impressive!

Calf skin breeches for a boy.

The wares. Not for sale, sadly. Most are created from original patterns or garments as study pieces.

Beautiful hand sewn linen lining.

A boy's banyan underway. Florals were for everybody in 1770!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-08-17T10:20:00.002-04:00

Colonial Williamsburg at last

2011-08-12T11:41:00.000-04:00

Here I am at last, in Colonial Williamsburg. I've been wanting to visit here for a long time. I knew it to be one of the premier costumed historic sites. It has certainly lived up to that reputation. They do interpret history so well here.

For those who don't know, Williamsburg was the capital of the fledgling colony of Virgina and the Revolution ended near here at Yorktown, when Cornwallis surrendered, ending British rule of the colonies. It was the beginning of America. But you can read all about that elsewhere and I'm sure you remember your Grade 8 history!

The site is huge and the interpretation fantastic. We saw tableaus played out in first person: George Washington talking about the next move toward Independence, slaves talking about their life and hardships. I liked the way these juxtapositions were brought forward. It wasn't liberty for slaves, that's for sure.

Best of all for me, my friend Tina from the Museum of Civilisation in Ottawa connected me to Mark Hutter, who gave us a back stage tour of the Millinery shop. In this workshop, period techniques are used to create clothing, stays and hats. That means stitched by hand, folks! These garments are used as part of research and museum displays. They have an intern and apprenticeship programme to train people in these historic arts. As someone who worries about the future of my industry, this was comforting.

Today, I get to meet with the costume production facility staff, who make the clothing worn by the interpreters on the streets. I expect the approach to be similar to methods I use in costuming.

Pictures to follow. I can't add them while on the road. It's been a great trip!

2011-08-05T09:57:00.000-04:00

18th century shoes from the Agnes Etherington Collection, Kingston, Ontario

I'm turning to the 18th century this week, as tonight I am off to Williamsburg , Virginia! I'm very excited to see the costume workshops. I understand they have open workshops, demonstrating millinery and mantua making. I hope to spend some time chatting with the specialists there and comparing notes.

So I thought you'd like to see these 18th century shoes, which I saw at Queen's University in Kingston this May. I was part of a group that had a back stage tour. Very interesting. I have more pictures to share with you from that visit.

But now, I must away! See you soon.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-08-03T10:09:00.000-04:00

1812 short gowns

2011-07-29T12:11:00.001-04:00

More 1812 short gowns for Fort George.

Last summer we made some short gowns to field test. Some results came back, in need of repairs. So, I have made two more, with some changes, to overcome the problems the repairs revealed. This first gown was unlined. I used twill tape to create the casing at the neckline and waist.

One of the issues was the neckline tearing. I determined that this was because the neckline had been clipped in order to turn it more easily. Using the tape and a narrow seam with no clipping, should be stronger. Being unlined made the back pleats thinner and therefore, less fabric under the casing, which also tore in the field test.

This was a really nice print.

Number two was lined with a nice print, bought on sale as it has faded. That made it an easy choice as a lining. In 2010, I developed new patterns for the short gowns in small, medium and large.

Twill tape was again used at the neck and waist casings. I also trimmed away the lining at the pleats, to reduce bulk. Let's hope it lasts well! These are now off to be worn the rest of the summer.

Part of the problem, I surmised, was that short gowns are meant to gather in at the drawstrings. That means they are a loose garment, usually worn over stays. I have a feeling it was worn too tight, which caused wear and tear. Literally!

That's the challenge with dressing folks long distance, when the training doesn't sink in, as to how to wear the clothing of another era. Modern folks are too used to Lycra!! Their expectations of fit are strange. I'm still bemused how anyone can possibly be a size zero!! It simply does not compute!!

A beautiful 19120's style wedding dress left the studio this week. Of course, I cannot reveal it until after the wedding!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-07-27T09:03:00.002-04:00

2011-07-22T14:16:00.000-04:00

The 1812 ball gowns left the studio this week. It's always sad to see them go. I have been showing them to so many visitors to the studio. The reactions are always good to hear and see. Our day to day clothes may be practical or comfortable, but we all secretly love the fancy stuff!

I took these photos at the last fitting. Meet Emilie (in mauve) and Lesley ( in blue), who work for Fort Wellington in Prescott, Ontario, Canada. They'll be wearing these costumes at various events commemorating the War of 1812 over the next couple of years.

I'm happy I took the pictures this way, as they show the front and back of each gown. They are silk taffeta, lined in cotton.

Here are pictures of Emilie's Spencer, which is unfinished. It will get lace inside the collar and frogs to close the front. Lesley will have a shawl and pelisse, which is a long coat. It needs braid and sleeves before I can show it off.

It's burgundy velvet and shows darker than the photo shows. Don't you love the little pleats at the back? This pattern is taken from an original garment. It features the classic "M" notch at the lapel, which was fashionable in 1812. The extra long sleeves were fashionable also. Sometimes they were folded back to form a cuff, still keeping the sleeve below the wrists.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-07-20T09:54:00.000-04:00

More 1812 sleeves

2011-07-15T11:29:00.000-04:00

The 1812 gowns are coming along. This is the sleeve for the blue dress. Creating a Tudor style sleeve in the way it would have been done in 1812 was the challenge. This sleeve went through three mock ups before making the final sleeves.

I had to decide to use an under sleeve, which was made in silk organza. This adds body without weight.The bands of blue taffeta were made and set aside. The trickiest part was the white silk. I had this lovely white habotai silk, which gathered up wonderfully. Too wonderfully. Deciding how full to make the puffs, how wide to cut the sleeve and how long, was what took time. To get the right amount of fullness as well as the right amount of puff between the bands couldn't be calculated, it was done by trial and error.

The end result was that the width of the sleeve rather than the length created or altered the effect. Like the mauve dress, assembling the sleeve by hand was easy. How authentic! Gathered by hand, pinned and set in place by hand. It all had to be tacked in place to keep the look, since I know no-one will have time to tweak folds and puffs.

If anyone has other suggestions, I'd love to have them for next time!

Grace Kelly exhibition in Toronto

2011-07-08T09:56:00.001-04:00

Toronto International Film Festival scores a coup with a Grace Kelly exhibition

Grace Kelly's wedding dress, designed by Helen Rose and made by the wardrobe department of MGM. It has rose point lace, silk faille, seed pearls, and silk tulle.

A replica of Grace Kelly's wedding dress, on display in the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco, which will be part of the TIFF exhibit.

Grace Kelly has been dead for almost three decades, but next fall she will be making a splash in Toronto, the Star has learned.

TIFF Bell Lightbox has secured the exclusive North American engagement of Grace Kelly: From Movie Star to Princess, which will run from Nov. 4 to Jan. 22, 2012. An official announcement is expected this week.

The exhibit will feature rarely displayed gowns and artifacts from the palace in Monaco where she married Prince Rainier III in 1956. It includes a replica of her famous wedding dress, a gift from Hollywood studio MGM designed by costume diva Helen Rose.

The opening of the show will provide another chapter to what has become a year of royal wedding mania. Following the global hoopla over the marriage of William and Kate, Grace Kelly’s only son, Prince Albert II, ended his long bachelorhood at age 53 last weekend by exchanging vows with Princess Charlene, in the Monaco Palace where his parents were married 55 years earlier. For the first time since the 1982 death of Princess Grace at age 52 in a car crash on the Cote d’Azur, Monaco once more has a princess. Albert has reigned since the death of his father in 2005.

The Lightbox show is based on two recent shows that caused a stir across the Atlantic. The first was the Grimaldi Forum’s 2007 exhibition in Monaco called The Grace Kelly Years. A 2010 show — Grace Kelly: Style Icon — drew huge crowds to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum.

Conspicuously missing from the V&A exhibit was the bride’s famous high-neck dress. It featured an antique Valenciennes rose point lace, silk taffeta and tulle, and the veil had thousands of seed pearls. The outfit took 35 craft artists in the MGM wardrobe department six weeks to make.

The legendary gown is owned by the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which keeps it in storage. But TIFF has scored a coup by nabbing a replica made by the Monaco palace in 2007. As well, the Lightbox show will feature wedding photographs from the Philadelphia Museum.

In the Lightbox version of the show, famous outfits will be supplemented by screenings of Alfred Hitchcock movies starring Kelly and other icy blonds.

The exhibition will include her Van Cleef Arpels tiara, the Oscar she won in 1955 for The Country Girl, letters from Hitchcock, telegrams from Prince Rainier, bits of childhood scrapbooks and school yearbooks. Most intriguing could be the home movies she made, shot on Super-8, showcasing friends and family.

As for that famous wedding dress, well, the original was given to the museum in Philadelphia, where Kelly grew up in a wealthy and socially prominent family rather like the one from which sprang Tracy Lord, the character Kelly played in High Society. Indeed, the 1956 Cole Porter musical (in which her co-stars were Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra and Louis Armstrong) was based on a popular 1930s play entitled The Philadelphia Story.

According to Kristina Haugland, a senior curator at the Philadelphia museum, the dress was on display for more than 20 years before it became clear it was extremely fragile and needed to be protected from excessive exposure. That’s why it is brought only for special occasions, notably a heavily attended exhibition in 2006 marking the 50th anniversary of the wedding.

But to get to the heart of the Grace Kelly magic, one must move beyond clothes and artifacts and watch her on the big screen. She made only 11 films and, in a way, her 1950s Hollywood career represented the only period of her life when she was free to be herself.

During her early years, by all accounts, she was restricted by the tight rules of high society in an aristocratic Philly family. And for the last quarter-century of her life, she had to play by the rules set for a European princess. Her husband made it illegal for movies starring Kelly to be shown in Monaco.

But when you see her win the hearts of James Stewart in Hitchcock’s Rear Window and Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief, you will begin to understand why Kelly, with her unique blend of gorgeously cool style and concealed emotional hunger, had the power to seduce the entire world. Maybe that’s what the Prince was afraid of.

mknelman@thestar.ca

Source: www.Toronto.com

Wordless Wednesday

2011-07-06T09:50:00.002-04:00

Patriots

18th century costume

2011-07-04T09:49:00.000-04:00

Please check out this interesting blog post from Joseph Hisey: http://www.jhisey.blogspot.com/

Wordless Wednesday

2011-06-29T09:34:00.001-04:00

Works in progress

2011-06-25T20:56:00.000-04:00

I haven't had luck adding pictures this week, so here's a post without illustration. It's also been a busy week with various distractions.

I've been refining the cut of the 1812 pelisse coat. It was to be unlined, but then the question arose as to how seams should be finsihed. Some reading is needed to see what period techniques are mentioned in the books. Lining solves the problem, but now the right stuff must be found. This is when I miss having a local sari shop. They always had lightweight silk in many colours.

The velvet Spencer is cut, the collar interfaced and sleeves re-cut. I have fittings on Tuesday, so must get these two items assembled so I can re-fit the sleeves I re-cut. The originals had far too shallow a curve at the underarm, resulting in bunching at the armpit. Using period patterns is not always foolproof.

I have a pattern to make for a modern jacket. That's in muslin, waiting a second look. I like to bring tihngs along in stages. The client wants a muslin and pattern to follow. It's drafted and waiting on the table for stage two.

I spent a lovely afternoon adding entredeux to the 1920's style wedding gown. The cotton batiste looks lovely with the lace motif and entredeux added. The pink slip is almost complete.

Step by step, things are moving along. I promise pictures next time!

1812 gowns

2011-06-17T10:00:00.000-04:00

Back to my 1812 gowns for Fort Wellington this week. This picture shows the girls in the basic mock up of the Spencer and pelisse. The Spencer will be maroon velvet with the taffeta as the lining.

The dresses are finsihed, their complex sleeves all worked out. Now I am making the Spencer and pelisse. A pelisse is a long coat. the top is very similar in cut to the Spencer. I had to recut the sleeves. The original design gave too much fabric at the underarm. Modifying the curve did the trick. The sleeves also needed to be large enough to accommodate the puff sleeve on the dress without crushing it. So, I changed the curve and widened and raised the sleeve head. the fullness goes all to the back of the sleeve head, behind the shoulder.

I have some wonderful braid to decorate the front with. The skirt of the coat will be unlined, now the question is: do I use French seams or overcast them?

Wordless Wednesday

2011-06-15T15:35:00.002-04:00

Wordless Wednesday

2011-06-08T16:26:00.000-04:00

Photo by Denise Fletcher

Watsons Mill Costume

2011-06-03T20:52:00.000-04:00

Another costume flies away from Edwina Richards Studio. I'm very pleased with this one. Kris was so happy to wear her finished costume. It's an 1885 day dress. Kris will be wearing it this Saturday at Watson's Mill in Manotick, Ontario..

The outfit consists of a corset, bustle and skirt with attached underskirt. The double layer over-skirt was taken from a period fashion plate. Kris is none too tall, so should someone else wear the outfit in future, we can add a petticoat with another layer of pleats to lengthen it and still keep the look just right.

The bodice is cotton, with cotton braid trim. I got lucky finding braid with all the colours from the plaid in it, which matched so well. Finding decent trim is always the challenge. If you have many sources, besides the fabulous but sometimes pricey Mokuba, I'd love to hear about them!

First fitting for 1885 outfit

2011-05-20T13:46:00.001-04:00

Here's a sneak peek at the 1885 costume I am creating for Watson's Mill in Manotick. Kris came in for a fitting and was very happy in her corset, bustle and outfit. It's so nice when clients agree to wear the whole kit and caboodle!

The sleeves are still in muslin. I had to decide which fabric they would be cut in. Originally I was going to cut them in the skirt fabric, but it looked a little heavy on the cotton bodice.

The skirt is pleased on an underskirt cut from ticking. It really holds its' shape well because of the ticking.

Since then, I have found a lovely braid with all the colors in it, which now decorates the fronts. Still deciding if the skirt needs trim or is it over the top to do that? What say you?

Wordless Wednesday

2011-05-18T10:12:00.001-04:00

Redwoods
Photo by Denise Fletcher

New sleeves from old

2011-05-13T13:27:00.000-04:00

I am so lucky with what comes across my cutting table. I have mentioned the War of 1812 Bicentennial is coming up and now I am creating two 1812 ballgowns for Fort Wellington. One is a vision in blue silk and the other a vision in mauve silk. I'd had a couple of fittings on the corsets and the dress, now it was time to create some detail.

I have had a close look at an original 1812 dress, which is lovely in cream fabric. It has a fabulous sleeve which we wanted to duplicate. Lucky me, I found a picture of something similar in Jean Hunnisett's book.

Pretty close! It even came with a pattern1 So I drew it out and made a mock up in cotton and taffeta. It turned out much too full in the underarm area. Not a spot I personally want a pile of fabric. So, I had to modify it. Trial #2 proved there was not enough height in the sleeve.

So then, I re-drew the cuffs and the sleeves. On the right track this time.

It actually took 3 versions to get something that worked and gave the look. I have now sewn the sleeve in the mauve silk taffeta with vintage lace for the cuff. This meant modifying the cuff more, to fit the width of the lace. It had to be constructed entirely by hand, just the way the original was done. After all, there were no sewing machines in 1812!

If you've ever made this sleeve, please let me know!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-05-11T10:01:00.001-04:00

Vintage hand made lace jabot

Prince William and Princess Kate's Magical Day

2011-04-29T10:03:00.001-04:00

The happy couple

Associated Press image

I might be English, but no, I didn't get up at 3 a.m. (Canadian time) to watch the Royal wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. I have recorded it and will savour every detail later. I did wake up in time for the church service and enjoyed that over breakfast.

I admit I love the pageantry and the Brits certainly know how to do it right. Kate's dress was perfect. it suited her figure, was elegant and not overdone. I loved the length of the train, which could have gone way over the top and been halfway down the abbey.

I saw the lace sleeves and said "glory hallelujah!" Sleeves will now be back in style for brides at long last. So much more comfortable than strapless, let's face it. The buttons at the back were classic. I have yet to see a close up on the embroidery on the skirt, but I hear it was done by the Royal School of Needlework. It warms my heart to hear traditional skills still being used and honoured. I read Kate chose Alexander McQueen's studio for their mastery of craftsmanship. (That should read "womanship.")

The little bridesmaids dresses echoed the bride and that was a nice touch. The pleats really gave a full skirt without massive bulk at the waist. and the same was true for the bridesmaids.

Photo by Getty images

Kate's sister, Pippa, looked very elegant in her dress. It flattered her and the white was perfect. I was a bit leery when I saw the draped cowl neckline, but it was obviously under control. Way back when, women used to attach a peg of some sort to the cowl and tuck it in their bra, so it wouldn't drift when they bent over. Cool trick and worth remembering.

What did you think of it all?

Naturally, William looked smart in his uniform, but it wasn't all about him, was it? It was about the commoner marrying the Prince with the Queen's blessing. The fairytale dream come true. Long may it last, in blessed happiness.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-04-27T10:23:00.001-04:00

Stones

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Wordless Wednesday

2011-04-19T10:18:00.002-04:00

Masks of Venice

Photo By Edwina Sutherland

Almost wordless

2011-04-13T10:19:00.001-04:00

You have to watch this video. Tell me if it touches you as it touched me.

http://youtu.be/tRs7thLdwVM

Corsets under construction

2011-04-08T10:58:00.000-04:00

I'm making a new corset. This time for the lovely creature pictured here: my daughter. She kindly modelled the white outfit for me, even though the corset is a little small for her. It shows quite nicely, even so.

I am constructing her new corset in dupioni silk, with a brushed denim as the lining. I find denim in the right weight to be as good as the more expensive coutil for a corset. I am giving the design a fair bit of boning, to support the bust and shape the waist.

You can see here, I use boning tape, which is much better than just twill tape. I will use it if I have to, when wider boning won't fit the tape. If you've never used the tape, it has a pocket in the center, which the bone slides into and has a seam allowance for stitching it into place. Perfect for placing bones between seams. I often stitch it to the lining, so extra bones don't show on the outside. Otherwise, I insert bones along seams and I quite like the look of the top stitching down the seams. It needs to be accurate though! You can see both methods used here.

The eyelets come next. I cut the holes and then use one side to mark the other. This way you get an exact match. I always use double laces, to really cinch the waist. They can be knotted at the waist this way.

The eyelets are stronger when washers are used on the inside. My grommet setter does a nice job with this. I bought my setter from Farthingales and the eyelets with washers also. The black are the eyelets, the silver are the washers.

I'll keep you posted with progress, though I have 1812 corsets for Fort Wellington to do first. It all gets done in the end! Don't you find you juggle several things at once?

Wordless Wednesday

2011-04-06T09:36:00.000-04:00

Mucha appreciated!

Modelling Miss Abbott

2011-04-01T13:33:00.001-04:00

Miss Abbot Live

Today I had a photo session with a live model. the costume looks so good on a real person! I took a ton of photos, some of which will be up on my web site soon. It all works very well, the snap-on train, the bustle , everything. I even had her sit down in it, which worked just fine!

Do you think I should use this in my Wedding bells magazine ad?

Wordless Wednesday

2011-03-30T09:23:00.000-04:00

Playing cards 1812

1840 period costume

2011-03-25T10:04:00.000-04:00

1840 dress

Inside of the bodice

This lovely period costume is on it's way to Fort Wellington in Prescott, Ontario. I fell in love with this fabric. It was a cotton print, called "Christmas in Virginia." It did not look at all Christmas-sy to me, apart from being red. It was a very period look.

The dress is very plain, letting the stripes do the work. It was based on a dress from a show at the Cincinnati art museum. Take a look at the inside of the bodice and you'll see the boning and bust pads. These dresses are not worn with corsets, so the boning and pads help give the period silhouette. If I had my way, they would all wear corsets, as the posture would then be better and the look more correct for the period.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-03-23T10:50:00.003-04:00

Cogs

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Replica bridal gown finished!

2011-03-11T11:03:00.001-05:00

The replica gown for the Argenteuil Museum is finished. I have taken photos, which makes it official.

This gorgeous gown is 100% silk. I reproduced from the original gown, which is a sad state of deterioration. Such is the fate of the old silks. The linen lace is still in amazing condition, though yellowed with age. This one has a bustle and under skirt, plus removable train with lace and organza dust ruffle. What else can i tell you? It had gorgeous vintage linen lace, hand-made. No machine made lace in 1885!

Miss Abbott 1885 wedding gown

The museum is selling this gown, as I've mentioned before. So, if you are interested in purchasing this gown, please contact me at Edwina Richards.

Enjoy the gown. I'd love your comments on it.

Silk gown bodice detail

1885 gown back view

Wordless WednesdayLacing

2011-03-09T09:05:00.000-05:00

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Lacing

2011-03-04T09:50:00.000-05:00

1890's wrapper

1890 wrapper back view

I finished this wrapper some time ago now. I came across these photos and had to share them with you. I made this and others for Woodside Historical site in Kitchener, Ontario. They are the typical kind of "house dress" worn in the 1890's. Think of this as the yoga pants and t-shirt of the era! The wrapper has no boning and would have been worn by a woman when dressing or attending to daily tasks before donning the more formal attire of the day. She certainly would not have appeared in public in this!
The wrapper is made of a cotton print. Paisley was very popular at that time. It is fully lined in cotton sateen and fitted with darts at the front and shaped seams at the back. The lining is form fitting, allowing the back draping to be controlled.There is a short train and lace at the cuffs and yokes. the ribbon sash completes the look.

I've been creating historic clothing for Woodside and other Parks sites for more than 25 years now. That's a lot of clothes!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-02-23T09:29:00.000-05:00

Snow dog

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Making braid medallions

2011-02-18T10:28:00.003-05:00

I am finishing the gown slowly. The medallions were a challenge. You can see the originals and the reproductions here. I found braid which seems to work. The original was made from fine twisted braid, used in three layers. We can't get it that fine and I didn't want to spend that much time on these. The ones I made took long enough!

I bought this braid at Mokuba. If you have never been to a Mokuba store - GO! Imagine a whole store full of ribbons and braid! I spent a Long time in that store! they have branches in all major centers.

The idea with the trim was to imitate, rather than duplicate. The effect on the gown is beautiful. I promise to take some pictures next week.

I am awash in work right now, so time for taking pictures gets pushed to the back page. I have an 1840 dress on the go in fabulous fabric, plus a redo on a wedding gown. 1812 costume fabric will be arriving next week.

I am preparing a tutorial on adding hook and eye tape to the opening of a dress, so stay tuned.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-02-16T13:20:00.000-05:00

Ride a painted pony

photo by

Edwina Sutherland

1812 class winners!

2011-02-11T10:08:00.003-05:00

And the winner is...! I've always wanted to say that. It was such fun, reading through all the comments again. I wrote all the names down and put them into a hat, then drew 3 winners. It took a while before I could announce them all, because I wanted to be sure I had permission to use the winner's names.

A free online class, Costuming an 1812 figure, goes to:

* Mary Ann Tate
* Shashi Nayagam
* Linda Hinkey

Thanks everyone, for your support. Now, on with the blog...

I just listed a couple of my felt bags on my Etsy store.

Felt bags are great conversation pieces. Wear one out one evening and you'll see what I mean!

This bag is felted by hand with a rainbow of orange - peach, blue tones in Australian merino fiber. It measures 6" high by 5" wide at the top. The handle is also wet felted merino.

I really enjoy embellishing felt. Sparkles are incorporated into the felt, then I added beads and mohair locks. The flowers are made from dyed silk cocoons.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-02-09T08:43:00.002-05:00

Pillar box

Photo by Diane Carter

Blog giveaway

2011-02-05T10:44:00.000-05:00

A heartfelt thank you to everyone who commented on my blog. It was great to hear from Connie, Judy and so many of you. I am making so many new friends with my blog and new facebook page; it's just amazing!

The winners of the 1812 costuming class have been drawn from the hat. The hat is my admiral's hat, complete with feathers, which I wear when I chair meetings. Shahsi Nagayam, a friend from Doll Street was the first name out of the hat. I am just waiting to hear back from the others before publishing their names and awarding their prizes. If I can't contact them, I'll draw a new name next week.

Thanks again! I'll be posting the other two names soon!!

Have a great Superbowl weekend!

Edwina

Wordless Wednesday

2011-02-02T09:01:00.003-05:00

Berries and topping

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Last chance for a FREE class!

2011-01-31T14:30:00.000-05:00

Last chance for the FREE 1812 costuming class is today!

Any comments on any of my January blog posts will earn you a ticket in the draw.

Tomorrow I am going to put all your names in a hat and draw three lucky winners!

Thanks for all your supportive comments. I really appreciate it.

Edwina

Corsets

2011-01-28T10:12:00.006-05:00

If there's one thing I enjoy making, it's a corset. There's something about the precision sewing and turn of cloth that excites my creativity. This example is one of my funky offerings. It combines cut velvet and jacquard fabrics to create a great look. I combined a traditional Victorian corset pattern with straps to make an evening bodice. My model wears it with jeans, but it would look fantastic with a full skirt and a bit of lace.

The effect of the Victorian shaping is a nice cinching of the waistline and support of the bosom. I've had clients wear these with lace t-shirts which look fabulous.

My current creation is a turquoise silk corset, which will be laced with purple ribbon. Sumptuous. I've been asked to make custom corsets for a couple of people this year already and I'm looking forward to it.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-01-26T10:17:00.001-05:00

The Old Bike Shop

photo by Edwina Sutherland

Antique clothing

2011-01-21T10:53:00.003-05:00

It's so exciting when things like this come my way. I become a detective, along with all my friends in the biz that I show these things to. The mystery of who wore it and what methods of embroidery or construction were used are so intriguing.

These garments were given to me by my friend Peggy, who had them in her family trunk for a long time. She doesn't know the provenance, except someone in her family once wore them.

I date them to 1840 or so. The bodice is silk, opens in the front and back. This indicates to me that it may be a nursing bodice. It is lined in linen and has whale bones on each seam and dart and is entirely hand sewn.

Under sleeves
The under sleeves may have been worn with this bodice or not. They are typical of the period and were pinned or basted into open bell sleeves. Sad to say, there are only one of each under sleeve. Why, I don't know.

The one has beautiful hand sewn lace. It's some kind of drawn thread work and knotting combination. Exquisite. The sleeve on the right side has a delicate netting cuff which has cotton flowers embroidered onto it and lace edging added on. The blue silk matched the bodice and may have been worn in colder weather with the bodice.

Blog giveaway
Don't forget, if you comment on my blog this month, you will be entered in the draw to win a free online class in 1812 doll costuming. It's detailed on my other blog and you can preview the class on my Edwina Dolls site.

Wordless Wednesday

2011-01-19T07:32:00.003-05:00

Sewn

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Taking the train

2011-01-14T10:56:00.000-05:00

Back to working on Mrs Abbott's gown. Now for the train. Using the full width of the fabric, so as to avoid a seam, the train is 60" long from the bodice tip. I lined the train with peau doe soie, to give it body, then added an organza and lace trimmed dust ruffle, as per the original. This should peek out as the bride floats down the aisle. I can visualise this little touch catching the eye of the guests.

The top is gauged or cartridge pleated to match the point at the back of the bodice. I have now created a yoke to match the bodice shape, which the train will be sewn to. This serves to create a detachable train. Most brides want this option if possible.

Now to finish the trim on the bodice. I took a shopping trip to Toronto and trawled the fabric stores along Queen Street west. I bought braid at Mokuba to create the medallions with. I appreciate the skill those 19th century dressmakers had. the original used such fine braid for the medallions. Still haven't found the perfect silk roses for dress number two. this one is for museum display, so I want it to be right. I found a polyester, but shrink from using polyester for such a fine gown. I'm such a purist!!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-01-12T09:27:00.001-05:00

The Promise

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

FREE Blog giveaway in January!

2011-01-10T11:14:00.001-05:00

I'm very excited to offer my first blog giveaway. I am offering my 1812 online class FREE to three people who comment on my blog in January.

Yes, all you have to do is comment on any of my blog posts this month and you will be entered in the draw. Please make sure you add your email to your comment, so I know how to find you!

The class explains how to create a period costume for a doll. It can be any doll. I guide you through the process of creating the costume, cap and shoes, step by step.

If you want a preview of the class, you can see it on my web site. Just click the link on this page to see a preview. It takes a few seconds to load, so be patient! http://www.edwinadolls.com/

2011-01-05T14:46:00.000-05:00

Salt

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Inspiration

2010-12-31T12:39:00.005-05:00

I love finding new blogs to explore. I thought I'd share a few of those I follow with you. It's nice to have some new directions to follow when you have some time to look at them. One blog leads to another and so on, but you already know that! Enjoy!

Fashion is My Muse
Commentary on the intersection of fashion, art, books, history and life. I enjoy reading about this unique look at what is happening in the world of fashion, history and books. There is always something to explore on this blog.

American Duchess
A fan of 18th century costume writes this site, which also has an Etsy store. Many useful link share, too.

The Orchard House Wardrobe
This costumer has some fabulous projects to share!

Maggie Grey
Is an English textile artist that I just find so inspiring. You may know I also create textile art and art dolls, so that's why I like Maggie.

You can see my other sites on Etsy, my other blog and site.

Trains and ruffles

2010-12-17T10:18:00.001-05:00

I love sitting down at my sewing machine, joining sections of fabric together. Stitch, stitch, the hum of the machine and pop! See how they come out, all joined together. I had to design someway to support a detachable train for the gown. It was decided a removable train was more practical than attaching it, as the original Mrs Abbott gown was done.

I shaped a yoke to match the back of the bodice. It was interfaced and lined to stiffen it and support the pleating. I hand sewed the gauged train to it. It worked! I shall use either whopper poppers (snaps) or a belt to secure it. It may need both, depending on the weight. I avoid Velcro whenever I can, since it can do so much damage when the rough side is left exposed in storage.

Assembling a modern gown using period techniques is a challenge, but it’s such a thrill to see it turn out right. Like the orginal, I have installed an organza and lace dust ruffle under the train. It will peek out as the bride walks down the aisle.

Wordless Wednesday

2010-12-15T10:39:00.002-05:00

Banking

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

Washing day

2010-12-10T11:43:00.003-05:00

The costume for Argenteuil has been on hold for a while, pending approval and vintage lace preparation. The Brussels lace is now washed. I soaked it in oxy wash and rinsed it well, laying it out in the sun to dry. I was told not to iron it, but to block it out with pins. I laid it out on a thick white towel. It came up very nicely, definitely whiter. The rust spots remained, however.

The next sunny day, I repeated the process, this time dripping lemon juice on the damp lace where the rust spots were. Then I sprinkled salt on the stains. I have used this successfully in the past. It did remove many of the spots, but not all. I'm not sure on my next move, but the lace is much brighter. I may decide to leave it as is. Given its age, this is the prudent thing to do.

I gave it one more rinse and carefully blocked it out once more. With careful placement, I'd say I'm ready to use the lace. I need to get some fine tulle to place under the sleeve lace.

The ladies from Argenteuil came by this week to see the costume and were well pleased with what they saw. We made some decisions as to final construction, according to their requirements.

Wordless Wednesday

2010-12-07T18:50:00.001-05:00

Into The Green

Photo: Denise Fletcher

Victorian Wedding?

2010-12-03T11:23:00.004-05:00

I am currently having a new design created for my web site edwinarichards.ca. To this end, I have been looking at various sites and looking for some inspiring images. I found this one, which is a lovely image of a bridal party. In one site, it was labelled "Victorian Wedding."

Now, I may not be the world's foremost expert at costume dating, but this is surely an Edwardian style. Such inaccuracy bother s me. Does no-one care to be accurate? There are no bustles or crinolines here. The lady on the left is clearly wearing an Edwardian hat and dress. Think "Upstairs, Downstairs" here.

Enough of my rant. The new site will be up soon, divided into historic and Bridal. Some of my bridal gowns are historic, so I must decide whether to place them in one gallery or both.

Here's an image of a corset-style bodice I created a while back. It's based on a Victorian corset shape, which I adapted with straps to cover the breasts. I styled it with nylon boning and lacing at the back. It really cinches in the waist.

I had a client bring me a suit she wanted to wear. I was to make a bustier to go with it. The suit was a little tight in the waist, until I laced her into this style of bodice! She looked gorgeous and I didn't alter the suit at all!

Wordless Wednesday

2010-12-01T10:51:00.002-05:00

Edwardian bride

Wordless wednesday

2010-11-24T09:14:00.005-05:00

G mail
photo by Edwina Sutherland

Before and after

2010-11-19T11:13:00.007-05:00

I have washed the antique lace I bought for the 1885 costume. In the pictures you can see the lace from the dress, untouched, and the washed lace beside it. I was amazed at the difference! The washed lace is now ready to be used on the bridal repro gown. I also have found some hand made buttons, but have yet to see them for myself. Stay tuned for that.

The picture also shows the decorations from the original dress. I took these to show my friend at the museum. the original dress will be de-accessioned, because of its condition. My friend, being a textile conservator, takes a different view of these things than I do. She would never dream of cleaning the lace as I did, but would give it a museum preservation-type treatment. Not that what I did was wrong, but just a different approach.

We could have a long discussion on this, comment if you want to and I'll be happy to discuss it. What I came away with was a great idea for the museum repro gown. I will use the original lace and medallions as they are and dye the silk to match. This will give the feel of the original costume and showcase the lace in the best way. Otherwise, the spanking new white silk with old lace on it will lose its meaning for the viewers at the museum.

Wordless Wednesday

2010-11-17T08:49:00.001-05:00

Doubling Up

Photo by Edwina Sutherland

2010-11-10T10:36:00.001-05:00

Remainders

Photo by edwina Sutherland

Wordless Wednesday

2010-11-02T17:40:00.003-04:00

Fading Away

Photo: Edwina Sutherland

Brussels lace

2010-10-29T13:01:00.005-04:00

It's time now to think about the lace. Last week in Ottawa the Fabric Flea market was held. If I can get out of there without buying something, I am lucky. It's a great place to find my sewing and fiber friends. I went to see Margaret Ruhland, a lace collector and expert.

The lace on the dress is rather gray, so I was thinking I wouldn't be able to use it. However, after talking to Margaret, I have changed my mind. There is a debate in costuming circles about using old lace again, taking it off the original dress. One school of thought says that it should be left with the dress. The other camp says since the dress is in such bad shape, the silk being in shreds in many places, why not save the lace? I was in the first camp, but now, after talking to some colleagues I met at the sale, I have changed my mind. After all, the dress will be de-accessioned from the collection because of its condition. The lace, the unique medallions and buttons are in good condition.

Using them solves another problem: finding duplicates of these. If I use the originals, one search is over. I still have to find lace and buttons for the bridal reproduction. using the original lace on the museum copy will tie it to the original dress rather nicely. The other issue I was struggling with was that new laces are so stiff compared to the 1885 lace.

In the box with the original dress is a section of lace that is loose. it may have been used to fill in the neckline, as it has a hook on one tapered end. I took this to show Margaret. She identified it as Brussels lace, with needle lace additions. I am no specialist with lace, so this was news indeed! The lace is also made with linen thread. It is very fine. In the picture, you may observe the lace has been joined down the middle.

Margaret had brought along another piece of Brussels lace, also from the 1880's. It was pretty close in width and style. Naturally, I bought it. Margaret told me to soak it in Oxy Clean and set it out in the sun to dry. this I have done and it is whiter now. The lace has a few brownish spots which may be rust, so I will have a go at these with lemon juice and salt on the next sunny day. Not so many of those lately!

Another costume expert I know pointed out that this much hand made lace on a gown must have cost a pretty penny. I came away from the sale with much to ponder and do. If I get the rust spots out, I will use this on the bridal gown.

Double piping for Mrs Abbott

2010-10-26T14:42:00.005-04:00

The costume is now cut in silk. I love making piping and this gown has double piping. I had to think through the application, as one layer is both piping and facing. The back has a very deep point, which is rounded slightly at the tip, to enable the piping to be turned to the wrong side with less bulk.

I'm very pleased with how it turned out. The bodice is now boned, the skirt is hemmed. I have re-cut the sleeves, to lower the sleeve heads.

I bought some lace from a collector. It's a Brussels lace from 1885, made with linen thread. She identified the lace on the original dress also as Brussels, with needle lace embellishing. It is exquisite, but rather gray. I am considering using the original lace, if it cleans up well.

I was told to soak it in Oxy Wash and then set it out to dry in the sun. I shall block it out with pins, rather than iron it. Wish me luck!

History in the making

2010-10-12T15:51:00.006-04:00

Back to my journal on the dress from the Musee Argenteuil.

I am now working on the pattern for the modern reproduction of Mrs Abbott's dress. This one will fit a person with a 36" bust. Here you can see the bodice cut out in cotton sateen and pinned together. This will become the underlining of the bodice.

There are certain considerations to be made when adapting an 1885 dress to the modern figure. Firstly, the modern bride will probably not be wearing a corset, so the high bust line of the original must be brought down about 1". The darts will need to be shaped right to the bust point, unlike a modern dart, which ends about 1" away from the bust point. This will help give the illusion of the corset underneath and keep the period silhouette.

Secondly, the waistline of the original bodice cuts quite high at the sides. Again, fine if you are wearing a corset, but the bodice will rise above the skirt waistband on the un-corseted figure. Therefore, I made the decision to lower the waist at the sides somewhat. I had to keep the sharp points at front and back waist.

The three quarter sleeves may need further length adjustments, depending on what lace I find. I hope the wearer of this likes the sleeve gathers, which will be mostly at the back of the armhole, again, for accuracy to the era. the width of the lace will also determine if I will lower the neckline further. The original dress has a drawstring at the neckline. I like this touch, as it allows the bride to keep the neckline close to the chest if she wants.

Silk jersey wedding dress

2010-10-06T13:42:00.005-04:00

This beautiful dress was created with a Vogue pattern. My client was going to make it herself, with her mother's help. the silk jersey, however, proved too tricky for them to work with, so they brought it to me.

Silk jersey needs careful handling. My table is covered with cotton fabric, so the silk sticks to it, which makes layout easier. It is very slippery! Then the pins need to be sharp, so you don't get any snags. I cut it out with a rotary cutter, after inserting a new blade. Silk is my favourite fabric, but it sure does blunt a blade! By the time I had done the cutting, the blade was dull. Who'd have thought?

Lots of pins helped with the sewing, plus a fine size 10 needle. new, of course. The first fitting showed the draping wasn't working well. The weight of the jersey had it falling to one side, so I shifted the gathers toward the center, which helped. I used a serged roll hem on the skirt, as I didn't want to add too much weight. The dress is surprisingly heavy.

Meghaan was pleased with her dress and gave me some of her beautiful jewellery as a gift. Please check out her web site and her etsy store: http://www.littlestudio.ca/

and Little Studio on Etsy.

You can subscribe to this blog by filling in the form at the top right of the page. This way, you'll get updated entries whenever I make them.

Crystal's dream wedding

2010-09-06T16:34:00.005-04:00

The big day arrived August 28! The happy couple looked wonderful. I went early with my daughter, to help the bride get dressed. We also helped the bridesmaids lace up their dresses and I fixed Mum's dress, too! Good job I brought my needle and thread. I was so honoured to be part of the big day.

The wedding was outdoors and the weather was perfect. Family and friends gathered by the pond to witness the ceremony and then wandered along to the marquee for the reception. We were entertained by Nancy's brother Jumping Jimmy Leroux, who was great. His siblings helped out on backing vocals! What a great day!

Upcycling comes to the studio!

2010-07-09T11:32:00.004-04:00

Once in a while, I get to sew something for myself. I have been dying to try this and when a small window of opportunity arose, I took it!

I bought the t-shirts a few weeks ago, took them home and washed them, so they'd be ready. I didn't want to risk shrinkage after the fact. I began by putting the blue shirt on my dress form. I have pretty good pattern making skills, if I do say so myself, but this time I threw caution to the wind and winged it. I draped the whole thing on the mannequin.

Starting with the neckline, I chalked on the new line and began making darts to shape the bust. I used a tape to delineate the bust line and chalked that on. Then I trued up the top on the cutting table and cut away the rest.

Back on the form and I pinned the red in place, adding darts again. I tired it on, decided to reshape the hips a little, but keep it loose in the body.

Then it was off to the sewing machine, to stitch the darts, then serge the edges. another fitting and I decided to add another strip to the hem, to balance the design and add some length. The red band at the front tied it all together. I've worn it twice now and got compliments each time. That makes it a hit, in my books!!

Wedding belles!

2010-06-20T12:49:00.005-04:00

My latest dress is for the oldest daughter of our oldest friends. She always said I would make her dress someday and the day is here. What a privilege that is. The wedding is in August.

I am at the design stage. The dress will be white stain. I had fun playing with light blue taffeta to get the full skirt.

I had played around with the idea of the fullness being gathered in by twists of fabric to form roses. That put a lot of fullness in the skirt. It was modified to reduce some of that and keep the fullness at the hem, with less at the waist.

The neat thing for me is that the skirt is one piece of fabric! 4 metres, straight round, well, with a little drape here and there...

Making history

2010-05-30T12:13:00.008-04:00

Another very interesting project has come to the studio. I thought you might enjoy following along with it as it develops.

I will be creating two reproductions of this dress. One is for the Musee Argenteuil in Quebec. It will be a faithful repro of the original. The second will be made to sell as a wedding gown, so will be modern in its fit and interpretation. It will be a challenging project, but one I am looking forward to . I have a year to complete it and I will need it!

All I have so far on the original is that Alice Elizabeth Abbott married Richard Susan Heneker, in January 1885. So the dress dates from that time. I have the dress stored in its acid free box at my studio. It is in very poor condition, with the silk shredded where it has been folded. I took it out to take photos and measure it, so that I should not have to disturb it again. Here are the first few pictures. I have some that show the skirt was lengthened, so perhaps it was worn by someone alse at a later date.

The first challenge is to find the fabric. 100% silk brocade is not so simple to find, as many brocades use rayon to create the designs. I want pure silk. I am a bit of a purist when it comes to my repros having natural fibres. Silk taffeta and sateen, used in the linings, is easy to find. Brocade, not so much.

This shot shows the front. It wouldn't fit the mannequin, being only 32" in the bust and 21" in the waist! Methinks Miss Abbott must have been about 15 when she married. Still doing research on that. She would have worn a corset, naturally!

Lace frames the U shaped neckline and sleeves.

The side view shows the train, which is attached to the bodice back. You can see the separate skirt at the front.

The back view, showing the classic shaping of the back

bodice seams.

The detail at the back waist is what makes this dress original. The large buttons are made in braid and in fabulous condition. We will probably remove these and re-use them on the repro for the museum. The edge of the bodice has double rows of fine corded piping and very long sharp points at center front and back.

So stay tuned, I'll keep taking photos as it grows. Now to find the fabric and make my tiny pattern...

Mother of the bride

2010-05-16T14:03:00.003-04:00

Remember the Victorian silk gown? Well, here's the mother of the bride, ready for the wedding, which was last weekend.

She is wearing a silk charmeuse dress, with gold lace over lay The draped skirt has her looking very sophisticated. If you look to one side, you'll see the back view reflected in the mirror.

The lace came from C & M Textiles.

Recently, I have been away from the studio, teaching fitting skills. The first was a pants fitting class, followed by a jacket fitting class. I do enjoy helping home sewers get better results from their dressmaking.

Photo shoot with Alice

2010-04-27T08:57:00.009-04:00

On Sunday I went out with Ruth Mills and our model, "Alice," to take some photos of her in the 1850 costume.

This was created for Watson's Mills. Alice will be part of their summer porgramme, telling the story of the mill and the family that lived there and helped in the founding of Manotick.

It was a sunny windy day, perfect light for photos and we found this old tree and even a rabbit hole to shoot nearby! Alice knew her part and posed while we snapped away. Ruth created the hat for the costume, which completes the ensemble perfectly.

I found it amusing how naked our model felt, with her skirts so far from her legs! She had to put her shorts on to increase her sense of security! The hoop was responsible for that. The costume may get bloomers at some later date. It's all a matter of budget.

Repro woman!

2010-04-19T18:28:00.005-04:00

Here's an 1885 historic costume that I created for Watson's Mill, in Manotick The outfit is complete, with a cage bustle. For ease of use, I made an under bodice, rather than the more complex insert used in 1885. It would have been attached at one side and hooked in on the other, inside the bodice. Quite the operation! By doing it this way, the outfit is easily worn and cared for .

The skirt is pleated and draped over an under skirt foundation.

It's a challenge to find the right fabrics for a reproduction costume and stay within your budget. I used a cotton/poly sateen for the bodice and a cotton woven stripe for the skirt. Dark red braid imitated the passementerie the original would have had on the collar.