Saturday, June 25, 2011

Works in progress

I haven't had luck adding pictures this week, so here's a post without illustration. It's also been a busy week with various distractions.

I've been refining the cut of the 1812 pelisse coat. It was to be unlined, but then the question arose as to how seams should be finsihed. Some reading is needed to see what period techniques are mentioned in the books. Lining solves the problem, but now the right stuff must be found. This is when I miss having a local sari shop. They always had lightweight silk in many colours.

The velvet Spencer is cut, the collar interfaced and sleeves re-cut. I have fittings on Tuesday, so must get these two items assembled so I can re-fit the sleeves I re-cut. The originals had far too shallow a curve at the underarm, resulting in bunching at the armpit. Using period patterns is not always foolproof.

I have a pattern to make for a modern jacket. That's in muslin, waiting a second look. I like to bring tihngs along in stages. The client wants a muslin and pattern to follow. It's drafted and waiting on the table for stage two.

I spent a lovely afternoon adding entredeux to the 1920's style wedding gown. The cotton batiste looks lovely with the lace motif and entredeux added. The pink slip is almost complete.

Step by step, things are moving along. I promise pictures next time!

Friday, June 17, 2011

1812 gowns

Back to my 1812 gowns for Fort Wellington this week. This picture shows the girls in the basic mock up of the Spencer and pelisse. The Spencer will be maroon velvet with the taffeta as the lining.

The dresses are finsihed, their complex sleeves all worked out. Now I am making the Spencer and pelisse. A pelisse is a long coat. the top is very similar in cut to the Spencer. I had to recut the sleeves. The original design gave too much fabric at the underarm. Modifying the curve did the trick. The sleeves also needed to be large enough to accommodate the puff sleeve on the dress without crushing it. So, I changed the curve and widened and raised the sleeve head. the fullness goes all to the back of the sleeve head, behind the shoulder.

I have some wonderful braid to decorate the front with. The skirt of the coat will be unlined, now the question is: do I use French seams or  overcast them?

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Friday, June 3, 2011

Watsons Mill Costume

Another costume flies away from Edwina Richards Studio. I'm very pleased with this one. Kris was so happy to wear her finished costume. It's an 1885 day dress. Kris will be wearing it this Saturday at Watson's Mill in Manotick, Ontario..

The outfit consists of a corset, bustle and skirt with attached underskirt. The double layer over-skirt was taken from a period fashion plate. Kris is none too tall, so should someone else wear the outfit in future, we can add a petticoat with another layer of pleats to lengthen it and still keep the look just right.

The bodice is cotton, with cotton braid trim. I got lucky finding braid with all the colours from the plaid in it, which matched so well. Finding decent trim is always the challenge. If you have many sources, besides the fabulous but sometimes pricey Mokuba, I'd love to hear about them!